Wednesday, June 18, 2008

South Early Winters Spire


On Monday the 16th Daniel and I left to drive up to Washington Pass to do some alpine climbing in the North Cascades. We dropped Reuben off with Mom and Dad as usual and camped overnight. Tuesday we started the climb with about an hour approach. We did the Direct East Buttress, Grade III+, 5.9 – A0 or 5.11, 9 pitches. It is granite trad with a couple of pitches of bolt ladders for aid. We really enjoyed the climb, it was varied and quality. Weather was great and clear, It started out really sunny with us in tanktops but then got quite chilly. We had felt silly initially but were really glad we brought our down puffys! Nothing like cascade climbing, going from tanktops and sunglasses to down jackets, hats, and glvoes.

Our climb goes up the right side of the tallest lefthand rock formation

Two problems with the trip. The first, Daniel didn't seal out platypus water bladder in the back of the subaru and it leaked allll over my duffel with my clothes in it. I had to go to sleep with my wet clothes on and dry clothes over the top in order for them to dry them out for the next day. Nothing like wetness next to your skin to make you feel warm and cozy. The second, I got even in stupidity. Close to the base we re-organized out geat into one small pack to carry enroute. We were juggling things around and I somehow forgot to get all of our food from point A to point B into the small pack. We discovered this maybe four pitches left and spent the rest of the time accidently snapping at each other and then laughing it off because we knew we were hungry. I even got shaky on one pitch and thought it was nerves until I continued to do it at the belay. lol, what doesn't kill you makes you stronger right?
Yay for the top!

We descended down the South Arete only to meet a very posessive mountain goat. I rappelled down to the base first and the mountain goat stalked me like a cougar. I had to boulder up a little on the rock because I wasn't sure what he would do! "Daniel hurry up!" . Maybe he just wanted to give me a little lick ;-) Definitely past the point of blood sugar alltime low, we hightailed back to our packs for some calories! Enjoy the pics...

No comments: